Good Morgon

img_20170124_204312_509Brilliant dark ruby with staining and pink-edged.  Big carnation and rose floral over dark soy sauce give at once sesame oil, carpaccio and bubble-gum to a sticky-sweet-seeming reduction of gravel and fruit-bowl.

This is the third of my recent Georges Duboeuf Gamay experiments (the other two are here: Pink & Flowerie | Oh Capitan My Capitan) and they have been so much fun alongside my typical CA drinkers.  Of course I love California wines–everybody knows that–but they often get bogged down with what fans of the style call “purity” and detractors call “over-stuffed”.  While there are plenty of arguments for Old World wine styles adapting a denser, riper complexion with a minimum of *blemishes* (what American winemakers call “flaws”), true Old World character will never be vinted out, no matter how clean and elegant the wines become or as they gradually creep up in alcohol.

In the mouth, thin bitter spice and acid remind you it is only a 2015 but can do little to thwart the round fruit.  A sweaty summer day, sullen and hot but the lemonade bolsters the bright sunlight and cheery aplomb.  This wine is so many things.  It is joyful and boisterous, it is carnal and base.  Beautiful, beautiful stuff.

2015 GEORGES DUBOEUF Morgon Descombes Beaujolais  13.0


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