A nose fluctuating between clean grassy lime and meaty splendor depending on temperature and air-time. At first lean and glassine, then robust glycerin-y white sauce and red meat, jalapeno and sweet banana and 100° days in the L.A. suburbs–wading pool, grass and hose.
Full, round and mouth-filling–at the same time sharp and perfectly bitter with a touch of petrol–this Sylvaner, while not as vocal as Gewurztraminer or a lower-alcohol version from this *family* of wines, provides a wild, woodsy robust-ness often lacking in Riesling. Drank from 52°F to 65°F, it shows a compelling range of personalities.
In the mouth, air-conditioned goodness drives thin shards of stone far under the skin of firm lilikoi and lychee tropical sweet floral. The pink grapefruit finish gives a long shudder of structure to an otherwise ridiculously easy wine, making everyone sit at attention and beg to start over.
2015 GUTZLER Silvaner ‘Dorn Durkheimer’ VDP Rheinhessen Germany 12.5