It’s Not Greek To Me

Beautifully clear, light ruby, slightly bricking ever so slightly out to wide clear edges. Mellow cigar and cedar bark, a touch of cellar floor, mint, Tootsie Roll and cola.  All slight and mellow.  Clean and–dare I say–icy-bright, while still furrowing acceptably in earthy musk and vegetal.  Mild cherry fruit pours out, nothing obtuse or unbalanced–and nothing super exemplary either–just plain old good wine.

This thing smells A LOT cleaner than I expected.  I’ve had my fair share of Greek wines in my life and… well…. Don’t get me wrong–I’ve had some good ones, and Porto Carras probably should be at the top of the heap.  What I am trying to say–and readers who have tasted around the globe understand–is I expected a bit more rusticity, a bit more funk, possibly a chunk of brett.  I mean–I had a Chianti Classico Riserva last night which makes this thing look like Caymus SS.

In the mouth, more mellowness.  Quite meager–thin even.  And I am not saying I need cabs that take the paint off my car or I can stand a fork up in, I am merely referencing my experience of most light cabs being of the *lean & mean* slant and most robust versions belonging to the *rubenesque* party.  This falls weirdly in a strange no-man’s land.  It is not fruity like a cheap cab; It’s not tannic or acidic like a lean cab; It’s not sweet or cloying or concentrated like a full-bodied cab.  It is just a really pleasant, easy, mellow drinker whose only flaw is probably one of non-committal.

More dusky licorice and bitter cassis flow off late air, and while tertiary is visible, I am shocked at the absence of patina.  Not tired in the LEAST.  I’ll bet this thing is in the hi-12’s at BEST.  A lovely wine, easy drinking and rewarding to all styles of palate.  Drinking at probably PEAK, I can only imagine it slowly fading from here on, but it will NOT get awkward and unbalanced–there’s honestly nothing IN this wine to unbalance it.  Casual drinkers will suck this stuff down with aplomb and snobs will read all kinds of witchcraft into it.

2005 CHATEAU PORTO CARRAS Cabernet Sauvignon Meliton Greece 13.0


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